Why Royaumont Abbey is a Great Side Trip
With Chantilly slipping away behind us and the cathedral at Beauvais on our minds, Royaumont Abbey wasn’t even a considered destination point. In fact, we didn’t even realize it existed but when we saw its quaint sign pointing down a small road that made its way through a tunnel of trees, I had to turn the car around.
Fortunately, I have an equally curious and obliging husband. We had managed an early departure from the B&B just outside of Chantilly which in itself was an accomplishment so we had plenty of time for a little side excursion. The patron at the B&B was super friendly and very talkative while we ate breakfast. He had made all the confitures that were provided and his wife had baked all the breads (except for the croissants) and made the fresh yogurt. Our morning had had a delightful and extremely filling start and now to add to the pleasure we stumbled across the Abbey!
Historical Overview
Entrance to Abbey Church remains
We had plenty of time to read about the Abbey as we waited for it to open so I will share a bit of that with you.
King Louis IX (Saint Louis) founded Royaumont Abbey in 1228. Also known as the Abbey of Saint Louis, this Cistercian abbey became a royal burial place by St Louis when he had one of this brothers and three of his children buried at the Abbey.
Both St Louis and his son who died in battle by his side were also buried here. At the time of the Revolution, the tombs were moved to the Basilica of St. Denis.
Due to declining income, the last monks to live at Royaumont Abbey relocated in the late 1700s. The new owner installed a cotton mill and sold off the remaining relics, books, archives, bells, etc. Much to our horror, we learned that a fire destroyed the church. Its stone then served as housing for the factory workers. All that remains are the bases of stone support pillars.
Royaumont Abbey was once again a part of the church between 1864 and 1904 when it was a novitiate. The nuns began the restoration of the abbey after its time as a cotton mill.
The Abbey During WW I
During World War I, it served as a hospital and was the longest continually operating voluntary hospital in France. It was staffed predominantly by a unit of Scottish women nurses and doctors. This link includes a fascinating 1917 video of these women at work.
Later, after World War II, Royaumont was used as a place for concerts. The Abbey became France’s first cultural foundation in 1964 thanks to the Goüin family and today the Royaumont Foundation organizes research programs, seminars and conferences and promotes cultural tourism. Its focus is on vocal and medieval music, traditional oral music, contemporary dance, composition and choreography.
Royaumont Abbey Today
Close to both Paris and the château at Chantilly, Royaumont Abbey is set in the midst of a beautiful wooded country-side. The drive down the tree enshrouded lane sets the peaceful mood that engulfs you at the Abbey.
Royaumont Abbey Sluice Gate
The park area is cut through by three canals, two of which literally disappear into buildings. One canal, we learned, carried away waste water from the kitchen and the other which runs the full length of the latrine building did, in the past, exactly what you are thinking it was used for. The part of the canal in the photograph above has a sluice gate in it to control the level of the water. This gate dates from the time that the abbey served as a cotton mill.
Our First View
Royaumont Abbey
Our first view of the Abbey was actually of the rear of the abbey as the visitor’s entrance is on the opposite side of the original main entrance. Between the visitor’s entrance and the monks’ building, which is directly in front of you, is a beautiful pond. The latrine building is to your left and on the far right (actually beyond that nice fat conifer) are the remains of the church.
The entrance path leads you around the pond to the monks’ building that you see above; this building is just peeking out of the trees in the photo below.
Pond fronting the Monks’ Building
Fragments and placement of columns seen below give a vague idea of the size and floor plan of the former church before it was pillaged for its stones.
Royaumont Abbey former church
Stonework wall between Abbey and the former church. This wall was once inside the church.
The wall between the church and the cloister is still intact. At right is a clip of the stonework found on this now exposed wall. At one time this wall was inside of the sanctuary.
Beyond this wall, attached to the church, is the cloister garden, a place of meditation.
Cloister Gardens
Royaumont Abbey Cloister Gardens
Cloister Gardens
The Cloister Garden is surrounded by galleries and the view below is looking down one of these galleries. Visitors seem to instinctively know that this is a place of prayer and always seem to be talking in hushed voices. Even at the Abbey of Mont St Michel where there were lots of visitors, they seemed to be much more reserved in the cloister areas.
Cloister arches
Refectory
Beautiful restored stone floors grace the refectory. The nuns who took over in 1860 used the refectory as a chapel. However, the stone pulpit seen on the far right wall of this photo dates from before 1860. Monks read edifying readings during meal time from this pulpit.
Abbey Refectory
During modern day the refectory serves as a location for concerts and in 1993 a Romanesque organ found its home here along with the surrounding staircase. The support structure is in the photo below.
Royaumont Abbey Refectory
Virgin and Child
Abbey Kitchen
The Abbey kitchen has a collection of objects representative of the 14th century. The Virgin and Child, Virgin of Royaumont, is a major of example of sculpture from the time period of Charles V.
Abbey Kitchen
Medieval Tapestry displayed in the kitchen
Viewing the kitchen gardens from inside the Abbey kitchen
Abbey Kitchen Gardens
The kitchen gardens have a rotating theme. At one time they grew medicinal plants from the 12th century here. Then later they grew plants used for dying and weaving. Each year a different theme is chosen.
Where to Find the Abbey
Open 10am – 6pm daily; ticket office closed between 12:45 and 1:45.
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