Paris Marais
Two neighborhoods comprise the Paris Marais, the 3rd and 4th arrondissements . Rue Saint Martin, the river and Boulevard Richard Lenoir border this triangular neighborhood. In French, marais means marsh or swamp which is exactly what the Paris Marais was once upon a time.
Although I have walked around the Marais many times, this last visit to Paris I felt like I needed to see it through a different set of eyes – through the eyes of a local so I scheduled a tour with Richard Nahem from I Prefer Paris Tours. Richard opened my eyes to so much of the history of the Marais and as a tour guide he was a delight! His tour really sparked my interest in the history of Paris as it affects this particular area so I will share with you some of what I have discovered and some of what Richard showed me.
Place du Châtelet
Place du Châtelet in the Marais marks the location of the old Châtelet Prison. Take the metro stop of the same name to find this beautiful square bordered on two sides by theatres: Théâtre du Châtelet, reserved for music, dance and musicals, and Théatre du Ville, which hosts both classic and contemporary theatrical performances. In the center of the square Palmier Fountain pays homage to Napoleon’s victory in Egypt where sphinx surround it. From this square you also have a beautiful view of the towers of the Conciergerie, located in the 1st arrondissment.
Museums
Heading north you will find Centre Pomidou and the Musée des Arts et Métiers which houses the collection of the National Conservatory of Arts and Industry. It is housed in the former priory of Saint Martin des Champs. An original version of the Foucault pendulum is located here and can also been seen in the Panthéon.
Priory of St Martin – Musée des Arts et Métiers located here.
Centre Pompidou,France’ National Museum of Modern Art, on the far left boundary of the Paris Marais map was the brainchild of President Georges Pompidou. Located on rue Rambuteau in the 3rd arrondissement of the Paris Marais it is a totally incongruous building set among the 18th century Haussmanian architecture (see the two photos for comparison which were taken within a block of each other). From the top floor you have expansive views south of Paris’ skyline.
Pompidou Center
18th Century Haussmanian Bldg near Pompidou Center
More museums will be found in the hôtels (town houses) throughout the Paris Marais neighborhood.
Markets (Marchés)and Shopping
Marché des Enfants Rouge
Progressing west on rue Réaumur (which becomes rue de Bretagne) you will come to Marché des Enfants Rouge which is Paris’ oldest food market. Not only does it have fresh food but it also has prepared food so I stopped for a light lunch while in this neighborhood. The children of a nearby orphanage wore red capes from whence the market name originates.
Open air markets in the Paris Marais can be found on rue Richard Lenoir beginning at the Bastille on Thursdays and Sundays. In addition, behind the Hôtel de Ville to Place Bourg-Tibourg there is a market on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Head to rue Montorgueil which is a market street like rue Cler for market shopping any day of the week.
The Paris Marais truly abounds with all manner of shops from the Izrael spice shop (below) on rue François Miron to dress boutiques, handmade jewelry, tea shops and the BHV (Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville) which is an enormous department store that has just about anything else you desire. It is located on rue de Rivoli at rue de Verrerie.
Izrael spice shop, rue François Miron
Don’t miss Le Village St Paul, open Thursday – Saturday, which has delightful little stores and cafés. It is easily located via the St Paul metro stop on rue de St Paul. Once you step back into this enclosed area of shops, the noise of the busy city just melts away! Weekend brocante sales (yard sales) are frequent happenings.
Le Village St Paul in the Marais
Place Vosges
Place des Vosges
The Place des Vosges was the center of French literary and social life in the 17th century. Built by Henry IV (1589-1610) it was originally called the Place Royal. Ornately covered sidewalks and wonderful shops such as Dammann Frères teas and coffees surround the beautiful square today.
Specialty teas make such nice souvenirs but Dammann Frères carries so much more than just tea. Their gift selection ranges from cookies to tea pots and various accompaniments in between.
Dammann Frères Tea
One short block from Place des Vosges in the Paris Marais, Richard and I stopped in at Gerard Mulot for a coffee and pastry. I now see why Richard calls this his favorite boulangerie/patisserie. It is located at the corner of rue du Pas de la Mule and rue des Tournelles.
Continuing on rue du Pas de la Mule for another stop at one of Richard’s favorite places, the amazing smell of chocolate overwhelmed my senses. Chocolaterie Josèphine Vannier provides the customer with delights for the eye with chocolates shaped like women’s shoes or grand pianos but it is the taste that will keep you coming back. The chocolates here are some of the best I have had.
Historic Hôtels Particuliers (town houses)
Hôtel Particuliers are private mansions that were once city houses for nobles. Ordinary maisons or houses shared walls with the adjacent houses but the mansions were built free standing. There are many of these beautiful hôtel particuliers located in the Marais of Paris. Don’t confuse the Hôtel de Villes, the local mairie (town hall) , or the Hôtel-Dieu, the name given to the principal hospital in a town, with these hôtels particuliers.
Hôtel de Beauvais
Bastille
A very large obelisk on the western edge of the Marais marks the Place de la Bastille. The Bastille met its demise on July 14, 1789 when stormed by the people. The photo below, courtesy of the Napolean site, shows the infamous prison in its day.
Before you visit the Marais, let me suggest this book by Alex Karmel. Neither a guide nor a complete history book of the Paris Marais Karmel’s book A Corner in the Marais: Memoir of a Paris Neighborhood is a delightful read which will open doors and give you a peek into the past of this grand neighborhood.
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