Burgundy Chapaize

Chapaize is a small village located in the Burgundy Region of France. Close enough to be a day trip via bicycle from our gite near St. Gengoux , we quickly added it to our list of cycling destinations. We cycled through Cormatin (where we returned for our evening meal) and then through Lys before we arrived in Chapaize.

The rolling terrain made this a very pleasurable cycle journey. The route was planned to avoid high traffic roads so even though it was not a direct route, we even had time to stop in Lys and explore the artisanal shops that abound there before heading on to Chapaize to see its church and have lunch.

Chapaize – ateliers and vignerons

This lovely hamlet is filled with stone houses, artisans (but not as many as we found in neighboring Lys), and a wine merchant whose house and cellars are but a short distance from the church. You can sample his wines (faire une gustation) as well as purchase his wine here, which we did. Don’t worry about an address. The hamlet is small and the signs are well posted.

The door to the vigneron’s cave was located at the back of his house.

Chapaize St-Martin

The magnificent almost 100 year old church is what beckoned us to Chapaize as it clearly calls to others. After we explored the inside of the church we discovered 4 artists had set up their easels near the church and were making sketches of the church.

This is actually the rear view of the church which I thought was a lovelier view than the front.

This 11th century Romanesque church of St Martin in Chapaize was the reason we planned a cycling day to Chapaize. Because of its exceptionally tall bell tower, the church is easily seen from a distance as you approach it.

Chapaize-St-Martin central isle. The window above the altar is in the next image.

Window above the altar

Standing in front of the altar looking upward into the tower.

Polychrome detailing on the ceiling

Across the street from the church is a restaurant named Le St-Martin. The food was wonderful and it was a lovely setting to be dining in the shadow of such a beautiful church. While we waited for our food, this grocery truck (camion d’epicerie) pulled up, honked and residents began slowly appearing with their baskets for carrying home their purchases. An epicerie truck did not visit our little hamlet of Curtil-sous-Burnand but we did have a boulangerie truck with a nice selection of breads and pastries that would show up promptly at 11 every Monday and Thursday morning! Such crispy baguettes!

Epicerie truck which travels to the small hamlets that have no grocery store.

Views from the journey home from Chapaize

I love vacations where we spend more time on a bicycle than in the car. Cycling back to the house through this forest was unforgettable. I will never forget the woody perfume of the forest, the cool breeze that refreshed us even in the July heat as it drifted out from the woods and the beautiful fields of sunflowers! You miss all of that sensory experience if you are zipping down the road with windows closed to the air conditioning.