Auvergne Massif Central
The Auvergne Massif Central, located in the center of France, is sculpted by remnants of volcanoes. Its river gorges and volcanic peaks (puys) are just a few of the features that make it an ideal region for walking, hiking, rafting or hang gliding. Volcanic springs bubble here and every where you turn there is the chance to experience these wonderful mineral waters.
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This picture shows some of the beautiful terrain and the Viaduct de Garabit, a railway that spans the Truyère River. The viaduct was engineered by Gustave Eiffel in the early 1880s and is still used today.
My favorite memory of the Auvergne Massif Central region (besides the cheeses) was our afternoon swim in an ancient volcanic crater. Before you go, take the time to read Robert Lewis Stevenson’s Travels With A Donkey in the Cevannes.
Follow Stevenson’s incredible route from le Monastier-sur-Gazeille to Langogne yourself as it is marked on IGN maps (Institut Géographique National). On these maps Grand Randonnee (GR) indicate walks that will take several days or weeks to complete where as a Petite Randonnée (PR) can be completed in a few hours to one or two days.
It is in this area that we find the origins of Roquefort cheese at Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, south of Millau. The Auvergne Region of the Massif Central has five cheeses: Cantal, Salers, St Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert, Bleu d’Auvergne (a saltier version of Roquefort). Please don’t ask me to choose between Cantal and St Nectaire because it is an impossible task. I adore both of them.
My first taste of aligot came when we were in the region. Aligot is whipped potatoes mixed with melted Tomme cheese and garlic. It is rich and creamy and tastes of heaven.
One of our fascinating stops was in Clermont-Ferrand where even the Gothic cathedral, Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption, is built of black lava rock. You will find two historic quarters here as Clermont (with beautiful fountains and pedestrian streets around the cathedral) and Montferrand were once separate until united by royal decree in the 17th century.
There are several Belle-Epoque spa cities in this region. Vichy
is considered the queen of the spa towns and our time there was memorable.
Vichy is a beautiful city and I could have easily spent days in the Eglise St Blaise
looking at the frescoes on the ceiling.
Another one of these spa towns is St Nectaire whose spa waters are supposed to help with weight loss and stress. However, our reason for visiting was to experience the St Nectaire cheese at its source and to experience a village where part of the village is at the top of the mountain and part is at the base of the mountain – the views were splendid!
This group of primary school age children with their backpacks are headed up the side of the mountain. Because of the trees and shrubbery it was difficult to tell how far up they walked but it was good entertainment while we enjoyed our lunch.
After lunch we toured La Maison du Fromage (sampling the St Nectaire cheese and learning the process for making this cheese) and the Romanesque church in town.
On our way back to Vichy, we literally stumbled upon the Caves of St Julien
a short distance out of town. Some of the caves are still in use but we were able to explore the abandoned caves where at one time the St Nectaire cheese was stored to ripen.
The Auvergne Massif Central is such an amazing region of variety and a great place for out of doors adventures.
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